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Flat Welt Pocket Pattern

October 18, 2010

I’m going to show you how to make a flat welt pocket pattern. These pockets are behind the lining and great for the interior of handbags, as well as pant pockets. I’m making my pattern out of oaktag (a heavyweight pattern paper) and will be using an xacto blade, ruler, pencil, and awl to do so.


The first step is to straighten your pattern paper. Cut a piece off the roll big enough for your project, and then put it down so it creates a downward “u” shape. Place your ruler on top of it, and then pull your paper against the ruler to make it flat.

Now you need to score your paper to create a straight fold line. Lay your ruler across the paper, holding it steady, and drag your awl against the ruler to create the score.

Now, fold your paper back on the score line to crease it.

With the paper folded, use your awl to pin through the two layers of paper. This will create a guide for cutting a straight edge to work off of.

Unfold your paper and line your ruler up with the pin marks and cut, giving yourself a straight edge.

Now, fold your paper on the score again and use your awl to pin through the two layers.

Open, line up your ruler, and score the paper along the pin marks. Now you have two perfectly perpendicular lines that you can build your rectangular pattern off of!

It’s time to measure out the pattern. Fold along your first score line and measure out how deep you want your pocket. Mine is going to be 5″ deep, so I’m going to mark 2.5″ from my score line. When I unfold it it will measure an exact 5″. Pin twice.

Cut the excess off oaktag off.

To measure how wide your want your pocket, fold along the second scoreline and pin half the width of your pocket. Mine is going to be 7″ wide so I’m pinning 3.5″ from my score line. Pin twice.

Line up your ruler with the two pin marks and cut the excess off. Now you have your master lining pattern! A master pattern is one without seam allowances. Next, you’ll be creating your working pattern; the one with seam allowances that you use to cut your materials out of.

Repeat steps 1-7 (created perpendicular score lines) on a new sheet of pattern paper.

Take your master pattern and line up the perpendicular score marks with the ones on the new piece of oaktag and trace your pattern.

The top of the pocket needs an allowance of 1″. Measure up the distance from the top of the pocket and mark it with your awl.

Cut the excess oaktag of using your pin marks as a guide.

Now, measure out 1/4″ allowance on the remaining three sides and cut away the excess. You have created your working pattern! The next pattern you need to create is for the window that will need to be cut in the fabric to reach the pocket. For this pattern I’m just using a scrap because it’s smaller. If you don’t have a big enough scrap, just repeat steps 1-7 to get the perpendicular score lines that you need.

Fold along the score and measure up how long your master pocket is, plus 1/2″. I want my opening to be 7″, and I need the window to have a 1/4″ frame all the way around it, so the length will be 7.5″ in total. I will need to measure up 3.75″ from my score line.

Fold along the other scoreline and measure up how wide you would like your pocket to be. Once you know the width, you need to add 1/2″ to accommodate the 1/4″ frame. The entire width of the pattern will be 1″ so I need to measure up 1/2″ from the score line. Cut off the excess.

Now that you have the length and width cut out the next step is to cut the window. Measure up 1/4″ from both score lines with your awl.

Unfold the pattern and use your ruler and a pencil to draw out the frame.

Refold the pattern lengthwise and measure from the corner of the frame at a 45degree angle.

Use your pencil to connect the pin marks and draw out your triangle.

Now, cut along your pencil lines to create your window working pattern!

The FINAL pattern to create is the window that you will be sandwiching between your pocket lining and the outer material. This pattern, mostly used in handbags, will help the pocket window keep its shape during repeated use.

Once again, I’m using a scrap of oaktag that’s just big enough for this pattern. Line up the perpendicular score lines of the window working pattern with the piece of oaktag and trace out the pattern, including the interior window, but without the triangular bits on either side of the frame. You just want the 1/4″ rectangular frame for this pattern.  Cut out the interior rectangle.

You have made the four patterns you need to make a flat welt pocket! Next week I’ll show you how to put it all together.


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