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Flat Welt Pocket Sewing Tutorial

October 21, 2010


The materials that you need for this project are your patterns, an outer fabric, lining fabric, and zipper (That is, if you want your pocket to have a zipper closure. If you don’t just put it together the same way without it). Personally, I love using linings with a pop of color, pattern, etc. I love opening a handbag or article of clothing and having a nice surprise!

The first step is to cut your pattern out.  The “window” patterns are used for marking the opening of the pocket, the outer pattern is determined by the project you’re using the pocket for (i.e. a handbag lining), so the one that needs to be cut out is the lining pattern.

The next step is to iron over the 1/4″ turning allowance at the bottom of your pattern to give the opening of your pocket a nice, clean edge.

Now, iron your pocket lining so the turning allowance edge is 3/4″ from the top of the pocket.

For this step I put the window working pattern on my outer fabric, cut from the tip of one triangle to the other, and then cut on either side of both triangles. This will make it so you can iron down each trapezoid and then stretch the triangle bits back to give a nice clean rectangular opening for your pocket!

In progress v. Nice and ironed!

The first sewing step is to sew up the sides of your pocket lining. This is the 1/2″ sewing allowance running up each side of the pocket.

When you’re sewing up the sides and reach the turn allowance, be sure to leave about an eighth of an inch at the top so you can sew your lining to the outer without having to pull to much at the fabric.



Here’s a front and back view of the next sewing step. Make sure you fold down the 1″ top of the pocket or else you will sew your pocket closed!

The last step is to unfold the 1″ top of pocket, pin, and sew!

Here’s an action shot!

Your closed lining pocket…

And open!


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